Part explained

Buying wheels: steel vs alloy, PCD/ET and price

You rarely replace a wheel because of wear — more often because of kerb damage, a bent rim, or a new look for the car. But the wheel has to fit: one that's too wide, too dished, or just slightly the wrong diameter fouls the brake caliper or pushes the track width past the wheel arch. This page explains how to compare steel and alloy, what PCD and ET mean, and what to expect to pay for a wheel in the Netherlands.

By the onderdelen.autos editorial team · Updated 28 May 2026 · About the editorial team

What does the wheel do?

The wheel holds the tyre round, carries the weight of the car, and gives the brake caliper room to sit around the hub. Steel wheels are cheap, heavy and almost indestructible against kerb strikes — popular for winter tyres. Alloy wheels (usually aluminium-alloy) are lighter, better for ride quality and brake cooling, and can look striking — but they bend or crack on a hard kerb kiss and are more expensive to repair.

When does a wheel need replacing?

A bent rim after a pothole or kerb hit — gives itself away as a vibration through the steering that doesn't go away after balancing.
A cracked alloy wheel — often hairline cracks from the bolt holes or the inner rim.
Deep corrosion on a steel wheel, where the tyre no longer seats airtight.
A leaking bead (tyre pressure drops unexplained) after a minor knock.
Cosmetic: scratches, missing paint or off-colour on one of four — often a styling reason to replace the full set.

When to replace

There's no interval. A wheel gets replaced for damage or for styling choice. Important: make sure the new wheel fits. The three measurements that must match are diameter (e.g. 16, 17, 18 inch), PCD (bolt circle, e.g. 5x112 or 4x100), and ET (offset, how far the hub mounting face sits from the wheel's outer rim). A different ET can shift the wheel several millimetres in or out of the arch — when in doubt: ask the seller or a workshop to confirm fitment against your registration.

What does a wheel cost?

Indicative per wheel, tyre and mounting excluded: steel wheels for common sizes run € 50 – € 90 new. Alloy wheels vary widely: budget aftermarket € 80 – € 150, OEM replica € 120 – € 250, factory OEM or premium brand (BBS, OZ) € 200 – € 400 or more. Used alloy wheels from a Dutch dismantler cost € 20 – € 150 — always check for hairline cracks and cosmetic damage. Remounting existing tyres: € 15 – € 25 per wheel.

Condition	From	To
New	€ 50	€ 400
Used / refurbished	€ 20	€ 150

Browse wheels →

Compare inventory from Dutch sellers — new and used wheels, steel and alloy — and order directly from the seller.

DIY fitting?

Difficulty: Easy

Swapping a wheel — tyre and rim together — is a five-minute job per corner once the car sits safely on axle stands. Tighten the bolts crosswise to the manufacturer's torque specification (usually 100 – 140 Nm for passenger cars). Re-torque after 50 km. What you don't do yourself: mount a tyre to a wheel or balance it — that needs a mounting machine and a balancer.

Jack and axle stands (no scissor jack under the car!)
A proper torque wrench with motorcycle range (80 – 160 Nm)
Wheel brace or socket of the right size (often 17, 19 or 21 mm)
Optionally a plastic or leather pad to avoid scratching the wheel

Frequently asked questions

What is PCD (bolt pattern)?

The number of bolt holes and the diameter of the imaginary circle they sit on. For example: 5x112 = 5 bolt holes on a circle 112 mm across. Must match the hub of your car exactly.

What is ET (offset)?

The distance in millimetres between the wheel's mounting face (where it sits against the hub) and the centreline of the wheel width. A lower ET pushes the wheel further out; a higher ET inwards. A few millimetres can mean fouling the caliper or the arch.

Can I fit wider wheels?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. It depends on arch clearance, ET, tyre size, and the registration document. In the Netherlands, permitted sizes are listed on the registration card (part 1B); deviation needs type approval or individual approval.

Steel or alloy wheels?

Steel: cheap, heavy, won't bend easily, less attractive. Alloy: lighter (better for fuel economy and handling), better-looking, but more expensive and vulnerable to kerbs. Many people run alloys in summer and steels in winter.

Can I buy used wheels?

Yes, provided there are no hairline cracks (especially around the bolt holes and inner rim) and no heavy deformation. Dutch dismantlers regularly offer clean sets from low-mileage cars.

Where do I find my wheel sizes?

The registration card (part 1B) lists permitted tyre and wheel sizes. The existing wheel has diameter and width stamped on it (e.g. 7Jx17). ET is usually stamped too (ET45 = 45 mm offset).